Double stand-up collar



Qct. 2, 1934. P. FRANKFURTHER DOUBLE STAND-UP COLLAR Filed May 17. 1935Patented Got. 2, 1934 DOUBLE STAND-UP COLLAR Paul Frankfurther, Berlin,Germany Application May 17, 1933, Serial No. 671,584 In Germany August18, 1931 2 Claims.

With double stand-up collars it is very dicult for the ironer to impartthe correct shape to the collar after it has been washed. Each deviationfrom the correct shape has the eiect that when the collar is folded theupper and lower parts of the collar come so closely together that it isirnpossible to cause a tie to slide in the collar, and very often thetie is even torn. Attempts have already been made to overcome thisdrawback by various means.

In one construction, the lower part of the double collar was cut in theusual manner, while the upper part of the collar was not cut in astraight line in the direction of the warp, but diagonally to thejunction of the warp and weft. This was done with the object ofpreventing the upper part of the collar from becoming displaced duringwashing and of ensuring the existence of a hollow space between theupper and lower parts of the collar after ironing of the collar.` Thismethod of making collars was, however, not satisfactory in practice, rstof all because the diagonally cut upper part of the collar had not agood appearance, and secondly because the diagonal cutting involved theuse of additional material. Moreover, diagonal cutting is a difficultoperation to perform, and finally after the collar had been ironed thereremained so large a space between the outer part and the inner part ofthe collar that the tie fell out.

According to the present invention, in order to overcome these Variousdifficulties, the lower part of the collar is cut, as before, in astraight line in the direction of the warp, but the upper part of thecollar is cut in a straight line in the direction of the weit. Whencutting it is preferable to place two collar patterns side by side inthe width of the material. This method of manufacture prevents the uglyappearance of the diagonally cut textile material, and, further, lessmaterial is used than when the diagonal cutting method is employed, andnally, after the collar has been ironed, the upper and lower parts ofthe collar are neither toc close together nor too far apart.

The eiiect is further considerably improved if the layers of textilematerial from which the outer part of the collar are made, are shrunkbefore being worked.

The result of the method of manufacturing double stand up collars isthat when being washed the length of the upper part of the collar hardlyshrinks at all, and when it has already been shrunk it does not furthershrink at all, and therefore retains the form in which it is cut,

whereas the lower part of the collar which has been cut in a straightline in the direction of the warp and not shrunk, shrinks, so that ahollow space is unavoidably formed. Then it is easily-V possible by theshape and the curve of the pat-'1' 60 terns to give the finished collarsuch a shape that the distance between the upper and lower parts of thecollar is correct, i. e. neither too large nor too small, even when anunskilled ironer dealsf with the collar. '65

The invention is illustrated in the annexed drawing, in which: v

Figure l is a diagrammatic View showing a known method of cutting outthe upper and the lower collar portions at the right and the lefthandsides, respectively,

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing another known method,

Fig. 3 is a similar view showing the method I according to the presentinvention, "I5

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a collar laid out at, and

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the collar in folded position ready foruse.

In this drawing a and b are pieces of textile material from which theupper part c and the lower part d of the collar are to be cut. Thepieces of textile material are shown in the drawing, the horizontallydirected arrow x indicating the course of the weft threads, and thevertically directed arrow y indicating the course of the warp'5 threads.

According to Fig. l, the upper collar portions c and also the lowercollar portions d are both cut in known manner in the direction of thewarp. y

Fig. 2 shows a mode of cutting which cannot be employed in practice, inwhich the upper collar part c is cut from the piece of textile materiala diagonally to the direction of the weft and warp threads. From thisfigure it can be seenwhat loss of material is involved. The lower collarparts d' are cut from the strip of textile material b in the same manneras in Fig. 1, in the direction of the warp threads.

Fig. 3 explains the new method of manufacturing double stand-up collarsaccording to this invention. According to this method from the piece oftextile material a the upper collar parts c are cut in the direction ofthe weft threads, and from the piece of material b the lower collarparts d" are cut in the direction of the warp threads.

Figs. 4 and 5 show in different positions the upper collar part c andthe lower collar part d" sewed together. '110 2. A method ofmanufacturing collars which comprises the steps of shrinking a textilematerial, cutting out the upper parts of the collar from said shrunktextile material in the direction parallel to the direction of the weftthreads thereof, cutting out the lower parts of the collar from anotherand unshrunk textile material in the direction parallel to the directionof the warp threads thereof,` and sewing the upper and lower partstogether to form the nished collar.

PAUL FRANKFURTHER.

